Walter the Tailor

BESPOKE TAILORING

#108-7900 Westrminster Highway

RICHMOND BC

TEL: 604-232-0065

© 2019 by Steve James

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March 9, 2015

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The Slim Fit v Classic Cut suit

April 29, 2015

 

Men’s fashions don’t change very much, just simple alterations to the overall look that suddenly appear to be everywhere. We have gone through one of these over the last few years with the classic suit apparently having shrunk! Looking at younger guys today, one would think that there suits have been pasted on instead of worn. Should you move toward this new ‘Slim Fit’ fashion trend, or stay with your ‘Classic Cut’ suit?

If there has been one overall movement in men’s suits over my lifetime, it has been a gradual slimming down of the overall cut. Anyone that remembers the 1960’s will surely remeebr these tight suits. They came out of the US fashipn for skinny jeans and t-shirts, and tried to show a similar look in more formal wear. Strangely, it was the British Invasion’ of rock music that made the look popular. The Beatles wore them for travel, press conferences, as well as onstage, and it very quickly became one of the biggest Men’s fashion trends in decades.

Of course, the pendulum swung (as it always does) in the 1970’s, and suits became looser, more floral, and relaxed. When I was buying suits in the 1980’s, the ‘Hugo Boss’ style was all the rage: The lapels got wider, the shoulders were bolstered, and the pants ceased to flare, and the overall look became more ‘boxy’. From what we have seen in recent decades, not much happened since. However, the look nowadays has retreated more to this 1960’s look. In fact, it is now perfectly acceptable for the suit to look incredibly tight, especially the jacket.

A slim fit suit is a more cut close to the body, with armholes sleeves more snugly against the armpits, close to the waist, and pants that are flat front. This cut shows more of your figure, and a better silhouette.

Already, the bespoke classic suit, contrary to what many might think, is not that boxy. It is a suit cut so just a little bit more comfortable, so obviously without revealing the curves of the body, but it should still be set to the silhouette. Of course, it also offers room for great touches such as pleats at the waist, usable pockets, trouser-cuffs, etc. of course, you can also have your jackets cinched in at the waist to show your figure. Overall, the classic cut is a suit more visually relaxed without being too relaxed.

So, should you choose the ‘Slim Cut’ when having your bespoke suit made? Is this just a fad that will pass, and all of these suits become ‘old-fashioned’, just as the suits from our youth have become? We suggest using your own figure. Many young men in their 20’s are incredibly thin, compared to us; this is due to changes in diet and exercise. If you make a slim suit look like a one-piece luge outfit (Or think that you would.), then act your age, and stay with a traditional cut.

Make the look ‘ypurs’, be comfortable in wearing it, and look put-together. However, if you need to carry more than a slim phone in your pockets, we suggest a Classic cut.

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