Tips for the perfect Made-To-Measure suit
It’s obvious that made to measure clothing is a superior alternative to off the rack suits. But are you intimidated by actually asking for a tailored-to-fit piece of wardrobe? We would all like to dress better than we currently do, it’s a sign of self-confidence and success, even in a more casual world. So, ‘how can I get the best made to measure suit?’ Here are a few points that we think every man can use. Some of these points are pretty obvious, but others are not and may even seem weird or unnecessary. But if you aren’t accustomed to buying suits and jackets like this, here are some things to keep in mind
These aren’t “The Rules”, but rather some ideas to keep in mind and to ensure that you are giving the right information, and being a useful part of the partnership in the fitting room.
Don’t be shy to say what is right and what feels wrong. Your Tailor is looking for you for direction, so don’t be intimidated by questions about fit and measurement. If it feels different than you are used to, then let him know. If you are looking for something that hangs differently, then please tell him. He does have a lot of experience with a lot of different body shapes. He also knows what he can do to make everything fit correctly, but he still needs your input for how that knowledge will ‘fit’ you, his customer. Make the fitting sessions a partnership, and make sure that your input is heard.
When leaving ‘A little room for growth’ Err on the larger side. For those of us over 40 years old, weight gain and loss is pretty uniform. We know our optimum weight, and even a slight gain can be felt. If your weight and overall size isn’t going to change much, you can be pretty sure that your suit will last for as long as it lasts – a long time. If you are under that age threshold, however, you may have a more acive life, or even a more athletic one. Weight and overall shape changes are easier to make, so when being fitted, give yourself another inch to ensure that you can grow into it and still look fantastic. Alterations can be expensive, so , if your chest is somewhere between 41” and 42”, go with 42”. If you go with 41’ and the jacket becomes too tight, it may be impossible to let it out. However, if you go with 42” and it is too big, then it can easily be taken in.
Don’t try to take your own measurements. You may be able to easily take some measurements like wrist and bicep; taking measurements of your shoulders and legs could prove impossible to do by yourself. Wait for the time when you can visit your tailor, and let him do it. He’s the Pro!
What is the purpose of the suit? Workday, something special, something all-season? Don’t be out off by colour, pattern, and material. There are enough choices of all of these for everyone, but you have an idea of what you will be wearing it for, so communicate this with your tailor, and get what you need.
What are you going to accessorize it with? Shoes. Shirts, ties, etc. Think ahead for the overall look. In fact take some popular accessories into the fitting with you so that you can be sure to get the right material and colour.
Research the type of look you want. You don’t have to consider details such as button stance, gorge height, side tabs, suspender buttons, interior pockets, shoulder type, front quarter disposition etc. H0wever do some research, and get some pictures or examples of what you want. If it is wrong for your shape and size, your tailor will respectfully suggest other ideas, but at least have an idea of the kind of cut you like, and the look you are going for. However, If you want a certain look that is somewhat ‘off the wall make sure that it is something that they can do.
Research your tailor. If you have a certain look you are going for or have a certain set of criteria you want met, for instance full canvassing vs half canvassing or a more structured shoulder rather than a less structured one, then seek someone that can meet those criteria. It’s OK to ask, Tailors are professionals, and if they do not specialize in something, they will be more than happy to tell you.